While I didn't intend for this to be a travel blog it does seem to be turning out like one. I think one of my last posts was lightyears ago and I definitely have some catching up to do. However we just returned from Tokyo and I'm too excited NOT to talk about our trip!
Colin has been dying to climb Mt Fuji ever since he received his orders to Japan so we decided to aim for this summer since he would have some time at home during this busy sea tour. Once we got a date set, Colin set to work on planning the trip. Our friends The Brewers, offered to let Elin stay with them for the four days we would be gone. Knowing Elin absolutely adores the Brewer boys, we knew it'd be harder on us to be away from her than it would be for her. I can't say that is a terrible situation to be in as a parent!
Colin and I took the bullet train up to Tokyo and stayed at Naval Air Facility Atsugi, just outside the area. We spent Friday exploring nearby Kamakura, known for its beach culture and Great Buddha Statue:
Buddha's flip flops:
Of course, I had to display the buddha belly in front of Great Buddha:
On Saturday we got up at 4am and began our trek to Mt Fuji, or Fuji-san as it is known to the Japanese. It started with a 1 hour 40 minute drive to a train station to pick up a bus to take us to 5th Station. The majority of Fuji hikers begin this trek up the volcano at 5th station, around 7,550 feet. Once we got to 5th we got our gear ready, purchased our hiking poles and started the trek.
Well hello Mt Fuji, nice to meet you!
5th Station
The beginning is definitely deceiving as it is a very pleasant, meandering path that gently coasts up to 6th Station. I like to think it's a nice way to draw you in and convince you 4 more stations can't be that hard. Until you look up. 12,389 feet is a LONG LONG way up.
Our hike amongst the trees was very brief. We hit the tree line very quickly and before we knew it, well we were clearly climbing a volcano. Lots and lots of rock.
Goodbye trees! See you soon!
The trek between 6th & 7th Stations was a doozy. If I remember correctly (and forgive me if I don't, 9 hours of hiking starts to blend together after awhile) this part of the hike was nothing but very steep switchbacks. Heeding the advice from my friend Holly, we observed the Japanese hikers and mimicked their gait. As Colin describes it, we did the Senior Shuffle. Ditch the big aggressive American style walk and embrace the slow, short steps of an elderly person. It truly worked. You might not go fast but the turtle wins the race. Everyone else is passed out on the switchbacks gasping for air and stretching out their calves.
It literally seemed like forever to reach the hut at 7th Station. There is a glorious Torii Gate awaiting you as you hobble up the stone steps to a hut with benches for weary hikers to rest. Colin encouraged me to go ahead so he could get a picture. I really think he just wanted an excuse to take a break. :)
Despite knowing volcanos are generally covered in rock, I seriously underestimated how, well, rocky it would be. After awhile I asked Colin if we were on Mars. You know that red porous rock you buy by the bagful at Home Depot? Mt Fuji is covered in it! Unsurprisingly it is very loose and unstable so you are constantly readjusting your footing as you ascend the mountain. I think the biggest nemesis of the average hiker is the boulder climb. You literally hold your hiking poles in one hand and use the other to pull yourself up a wall of rocks. I think we did this for a good 30 minutes or so until my quads were screaming for mercy. I remember reaching a hut (at that point, who knows which one) and digging for the first sugary snack I could get my hands on. I burned every calorie I had climbing those rocks. When we started up again we went around the back of the hut thinking it was about time for the trail to change to switchbacks and we were greeted with another wall of rock. As the guy behind us said: "This friggin mountain just keeps getting taller!!!"
After we completed an endless series of rock climbs we finally reverted back to the switchbacks. Slowly but surely we did the Senior Shuffle to each hut and station. We committed to a 5-10 minute break at each station to catch our breath and catch a quick snack. One of the neat things about Fuji is getting your hiking stick stamped at each hut. At 300 yen ($3) per stamp it does add up so we didn't stamp the sticks at every station, but we did at most of them. They use a branding iron to stamp a unique design exclusive to the year you climbed and if you make it to the top, you get a final red stamp at the top of the stick. It was definitely one of the motivators to ascend the summit!
Each stamp branded into the stick indicates a specific hut you visited.
The huts were a godsend. Not only did they provide a place to sit, but restrooms (200 yen/$2 of course), water (400-500 yen/$4-$5), banana (700 yen/$7), Oxygen cans (1300 yen/$13), rest houses (around 7000 yen/$70) and a spectacular view of what you just accomplished (FREE!).
Yes, water at Disneyland prices.
Whew!
Look at that slope!
Along with Torii gates that climbers stick coins into, there are shrines at some of the stations.
The stations were insanely far apart, or so it seemed. I'm convinced they trick you by placing several huts in between official stations so each time you crawl up the steps to a hut, you are often disappointed to find you're really at 8 1/3 station, or something like that. Lots of people turn around before reaching 9th Station, we ran into some gals who felt the need to apologize for not making it up there. I felt so bad for them, they were clearly defeated and I did my best to acknowledge their wonderful efforts at making the attempt. I have to admit it was hard to keep going when I was watching people turn around and give up. When we finally reached 9th Station we took a rest and then Colin went into fire mode and cheered me to the top. It was a little less than 600 meters but was so steep everyone was barely putting one foot in front of the other. At that point you're at 11,000 feet and struggling for oxygen.
And then you see the white flag.
The top! It does exist! We were ecstatic to reach it, a renewed energy came over us and suddenly it all became worth it. As we gazed over the clouds that rested below us, we decided it was in fact, worth the climb.
The hut at 10th Station, what a sight to see!
The red stamp at the top of the stick indicates we made it to the summit. Best 300 yen I ever spent.
My handsome husband enjoying a well deserved break.
Yes, that would be vending machines at 12,000 feet. Only in Japan!
Mt Fuji's 800 foot snow filled crater.
I couldn't resist. A baby bump pic at the top of Fuji!
The rim trail.
After about 45 minutes at the top we decided to head back down in order to ensure we caught the last bus down the mountain. Of course, thinking NOTHING could be more difficult than ascending a 12,389 foot mountain I practically skipped down....for about 10 feet. Then the real fun began. No longer was I hungry, thirsty, sore or out of breath. My knees were shaking, I was slipping and sliding down thick, coarse gravel and rock through ENDLESS switchbacks for several thousand feet. It was pure torture to me. My left knee was in a brace as a precaution but it was taking a beating. At one point I lost my concentration and fell right on my rear, in front of plenty of people of course. Annoyed with myself and the dust being kicked up by people RUNNING down the mountain I gritted the dirt in my teeth and kept at it. That darn gravel from Mars didn't subside until we hit the tree line around 8,000 feet. A glorious tree line which meant we were back to smoother, packed dirt paths that made me smile like a Cheshire cat.
Greenery! How we missed seeing this.
I would definitely compare this journey to a marathon. It's long, grueling and a bit painful. Since it is very difficult for most people to train at proper altitude most are not fully prepared to handle the climb. However what amazes me most is people from all corners of the earth show up to attempt Fuji. You have the energetic Japanese men decked out in their expensive Columbia duds, US military members sporting their fatigues & combat boots in an attempt to check off a bucket list item, parents with less than enthusiastic teenagers on their summer vacation, horrendously underprepared teens relying on their wit (and expensive bottled water), a crazy pregnant woman (me) and my favorite, Japanese senior citizens dutifully and energetically following their tour guide to the top. Oddly enough it's the latter who seem the most mentally AND physically equipped to complete the hike. Climbing Fuji is truly a pilgrimage to the Japanese.
Lastly I thought I'd acknowledge (if you couldn't tell by the photos or post title) that I did this 6 months pregnant. Despite many doubts I was determined to attempt the hike accepting that I would turn back if I started to experience any problems. Fortunately baby was an exceptional passenger! I ran 20 miles of hills every week up until the trip (30 miles/week in my first trimester) and I have no doubt I was more than prepared to tackle this venture. Will I climb Fuji again? Probably not. However it was a fantastic experience, one we'll never forget.
Goodbye Fuji-san! I hope it's a long long time before we meet again.
"He who never climbs Mt. Fuji is a fool; he who climbs it twice or more is a bigger fool"
~A wise saying passed on by my friend Wendy.
